QUINTAIS IMORTAIS: Traditional Crop of the Month: Cardoon

Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus var. Altilis), leafy cardoon, cultivated cardoon, cardo (Italian), Cardon (French); Cardo comestible (Spanish)

Description

The cardoon is a close relative of artichoke (C. cardunculus var. Scolymus) with the wild cardoon (C. cardunculus var.Sylvestris) being considered the ancestor of both. It is a perennial shrub that grows up to 2m in height. Its large pinnate leaves are greyish-green in colour on the upper side and almost white on the underside. The flowers are purple thistles, 5 to 7 1/2 cm across with wild ones producing white blooms. It is cultivated traditionally for its edible stalk. It is adapted to dry Mediterranean conditions where most precipitation occurs during the winter season. While the artichoke is usually vegetatively propagated, cultivated cardoon is raised from seed and cropped as an annual plant; the older shrubs produce fibrous stalks which are not as palatable as the more succulent annual ones.

The cardoon is a crop of regional importance in Spain, Italy and the south of France, where it is used in traditional dishes. The stalks can be eaten baked, boiled, fried or braised. The flowers are used as a rennet substitute in cheese-making.

As the leaves and stalks are bitter, farmers will often “blanch” them for 3-4 weeks prior to harvesting. This is done by tying the leaves together so that they form a tall cylindrical sheath around the stalk. By additionally covering the ‘sheath’ with burlap, cardboard, or pieces of weed-barrier fibre, the stalk is further shielded from the sun. The stalk – which has thus been prevented from photosynthesizing – appears whitish and tastes less bitter than the greener untreated stalks. Plant breeding efforts are now resulting in more sought after varieties that are lighter coloured and are less bitter.

Where it originated

All three of the subspecies, i.e. wild cardoon, artichoke and cultivated cardoon, originate from the Mediterranean region. There is evidence that artichoke was probably domesticated in Sicily, while cardoon was domesticated in the western Mediterranean, probably within Spain or France. The distribution of the cardoon ranges from Cyprus in the east to Portugal and the Canary Islands in the west, but is cultivated mostly in Italy, France, Spain and North Africa.

How to eat it

Cardoon with Almond sauce (adapted from http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2009/05/cardoons-andalusias-winter-vegetable/16748/)

Ingredients: 4 stems of cardoons; 1 large onion, finely chopped; 1 cup of raw almonds; 1-2 cups of unsweetened almond milk; 2 slices of stale bread; 1 bunch of fresh parsley; 1 lemon; salt; black pepper

To prepare the cardoons, cut off the rough ends and peel away the tough fibres. Place cut pieces in cold water with a splash of lemon juice to keep them from discolouring. Cut the cardoons in half lengthwise and then cut them in 2-inch pieces crosswise. Boil for 45 min, or until tender, in salted water with a little lemon juice.

Fry the almonds in a little olive oil until toasted, taking care not to let them burn. Set aside. Fry the bread until golden, set aside and repeat the procedure for the chopped onion, frying until it just begins to brown. Mix the onion, almonds and bread and blend in a food processor. Pour this mixture back to the pan, cook with a little oil over low heat. Add the milk gradually and stir as you would a béchamel until it thickens. Then add cardoons and allow them to heat in the sauce. Add salt and crushed black pepper to taste, and garnish with parsley.

References

Christaki, E., Bonos, E., & Florou-Paneri, P. (2012). Nutritional and functional properties of Cynara crops (Globe Artichoke and Cardoon) and their potential application: a review. International Journal of Applied Science and Technology,2(2).

Gatto, A., De Paola, D., Bagnoli, F., Vendramin, G. G., & Sonnante, G. (2013). Population structure of Cynara cardunculus complex and the origin of the conspecific crops artichoke and cardoon. Annals of botany, 112(5), 855-865.

Lanteri, S., & Portis, E. (2008). Globe artichoke and cardoon. In Vegetables I (pp. 49-74). Springer New York.

Mauro, R. P., Sortino, O., Pesce, G. R., Agnello, M., Lombardo, S., Pandino, G., & Mauromicale, G. (2015). Exploitability of cultivated and wild cardoon as long-term, low-input energy crops. Italian Journal of Agronomy, 10(1), 44-46.

Noorani, A., Rey, N. A., Mondini, L., Ciancolini, A., Crinò, P., & Pagnotta, M. A. (2012, April). Morphological diversity assessment in wild and cultivated cardoons. In VIII International Symposium on Artichoke, Cardoon and their Wild Relatives 983 (pp. 47-54).

Pagnotta, M. A., & Noorani, A. (2014). Genetic Diversity Assessment in European Cynara Collections. In Genomics of Plant Genetic Resources (pp. 559-584). Springer Netherlands.

Sonnante, G., Pignone, D., & Hammer, K. (2007). The Domestication of Artichoke and Cardoon: From Roman Times to the Genomic Age. Annals of Botany, 100(5), 1095–1100.

USDA. (2015). Nutritional information for Cardoon (cooked drained).

Special qualities

stalk is low in fat, high in fibre and contains micronutrients (including Folic acid and Vitamin A and C)

flowers are used a substitute for rennet in cheese-making